When visiting Paris it is easy to be overwhelmed by the sheer number of tourist sites deemed “must-see”. Paris is a city alive with culture; a city that has something to please anyone and everyone. For the museumgoers among us, it is a veritable treasure-trove, boasting over 130 museums of art, fashion and history. Of course, the most recognisable, and world’s most visited museum, is the Musee du Louvre. Home to the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo and the Winged Victory, among many other notable artworks, the Louvre is top of the list for tourists from every corner of the globe, and understandably so. However, despite everything the Louvre has to offer, it is the museum across the Seine that I believe is the best museum in the City of Lights. In fact, there are a number of museums that I would recommend visiting above the Louvre, depending on your interests, but that is a matter for another time. Today, we talk about Musee d’Orsay.

The Musee d’Orsay is located in the centre of Paris, in the 7^th arrondissement – just across the river Seine from the Louvre and the Jardins des Tuileries. Despite their proximity, please don’t be fooled – it is not a good idea to do both these museums in one day! In fact, if you have the luxury of time, I suggest assigning a whole day to each of the museums. Museum fatigue is a real thing and there is a very real risk of putting yourself off art forever if you try and cram too much in one day, no matter how much you think you love the greats! The last time I visited Musee d’Orsay I bought a ‘nocturne’ pass; a cheaper ticket that allows you to visit the museum from 18:00 – 21:45 on a Thursday and while this allowed me a reasonable amount of time to get around, I still felt a little rushed and that wasn’t even my first time visiting. If you have never been before I would strongly advise buying the full-day pass and taking your time, but if you’re time-poor and are looking to save some money where you can, the nocturne ticket is still a good option. For those most thrifty visitors, there is the option of a free visit to the museum. Like many museums in Paris, entry to the Musee d’Orsay is free once a month, in this instance on the first Sunday of each month. Note before, this doesn’t mean you can just stroll in on the day! Due to the high number of visitors to the museum year-round it is essential to book in ahead of time, and there are limited spots so as soon as spots become available (generally one month beforehand) you will need to be onto it.

So, why go to the Musee d’Orsay?

To start with, the building itself is incredible. Built at the end of the 19^th century, Musee d’Orsay was originally Gare d’Orsay, a train station that acted as a terminus for the Paris-Orleans railway for 39 years. In 1986, the museum opened as a museum of 19^th century arts, and now hosts the largest collections of impressionist and post-impressionist paintings in the world. Due to its previous life as a railway station, the museum homes architectural features not typically found in an art museum. Perhaps the most notable of these features are the two large clock faces that allow visitors to purvey Paris looking from the prestigious Rive Gauche area over the Seine and the city as far as Montmartre. In addition to the large clock-faces, there are many overhead window panels, and large arch-windows down each side of the building allowing in an abundance of natural light. The floor plan is also unique, and each section of the museum is contained to specific areas, some artists even getting their own dedicated rooms as well as of course a large top floor full of the big names from the impressionist era.  

As is to be expected of a museum with the largest collection of impressionist and neo-impressonist paintings, the art on display at Musee d’Orsay is world-class. Featured artists include the likes of Cezanne, Gaugin, Manet, Monet, Pissarro, Sisley and Van Gogh. In addition to the paintings, there are also sculptures by renowned artists Degas, Renoir and Rodin, among many others. Even for visitors who are not so au fait with the art world or who have less interest in paintings and sculptures there are exhibitions of architecture, furniture and photography among the permanent exhibitions, as well as regularly changing temporary exhibitions.

Part of the reason this museum is my favourite is due to the range of pieces shown and the layout of the building. The relatively recent opening of Musee d’Orsay means there isn’t that stuffy feeling that is present in some older museums and galleries. This, coupled with the lighting, open spaces, and well thought out flow of the exhibitions means that it is genuinely an enjoyable experience just walking around, above and beyond the benefits of seeing some of the most famous artworks on display to the public in Paris. This article wouldn’t be complete without a little mention of some of my personal favourites features within d’Orsay. Favourites, might I add, based on personal-preference vibes, rather than any particular knowledge or technical appreciation on my behalf.

Firstly, one of my favourite artists I actually discovered on a previous trip to Paris some years ago is Auguste Rodin. Rodin was an artist, primarily known for his sculptural works, based in Paris who is known by some as the father of modern sculpture. In fact, Rodin has his own museum in Paris, pre-dating and located not too far from Musee d’Orsay, which I would also recommend checking out if you have time. However, two of my favourite of his pieces – The Gates of Hell and Ugolino and his sons – are both on display in plaster at the Musee d’Orsay. Rodin was actually commissioned in 1880 by the Directorate of Fine Arts to create the Gates of Hell for the Decorative Arts museum that was initially planned for the site where d’Orsay now stands. Due to be finished in 1885, Rodin instead continued working on the piece for 37 years until his death in 1917. As it was meant to serve as the museum entrance way, the sculpture stands 6 metres high and 4 metres wide and is covered in intricate details, including miniature models of his other sculptures. His most well-known sculpture, The Thinker, is also shown in plaster cast in Musee d’Orsay, and is included at the top of the Gates of Hell.

Among the painters, two of my favourites have to be Bonnard and van Gogh. Bonnard, primarily for his penchant for including animals in his paintings. One of his more recognisable paintings is Le Chat Blanc, which went semi-viral online due to its bizarre proportions. Aside from his feline inclusions, Bonnard’s pieces are interesting as he includes many aspects of Japanese art of his time, by which he was heavily influenced. Bonnard is one of the artists that has his own room within Musee d’Orsay, coincidentally very near the majority of Rodin’s sculptures which is handy. My other favourite, van Gogh, is of course somewhat of a cliché. It’s also worth mentioning that to really see the best of van Gogh’s work it’s advisable to pay his own museum a visit (just a couple hours train away in Amsterdam). Yet, the collection in Paris is not to be sniffed at – 24 of his paintings hang within d’Orsay, including Starry Night Over the Rhone, Van Gogh’s Bedroom in Arles, and Self-Portrait. I personally believe every one of his paintings are magnificent and emotionally engaging, especially if you know even a little of the history behind them, and with 24 of his works, I would say Musee d’Orsay would be worth it just for that.

Whether you love the impressionists or just need a rainy-day alternative to the Louvre that will provide you some very famous artworks in less time (and that is kinder on your wallet), Musee d’Orsay is the place for you. If you can, allow yourself plenty of time to see everything, at least 3 and a half hours. If you’re particularly keen you can even access the floor plan on the website and plot out your route beforehand. Take pictures of the art if you want, but remember that there is likely already a better photo of the painting available online, so you may as well take the opportunity to appreciate it in person. Just remember to wear your comfy shoes, have a coffee and croissant beforehand, pack some snacks and make sure to get your painting-appreciation stance ready to go.